The National Day of the Maldives is one of the many festivities in the Maldives that could be enjoyed by tourists.

A Brief History of the National Day

The Maldives’ National Day is celebrated during the 1st day of Rabee ul Awwal, the 3rd month of the Muslim calendar. The National Day of the Maldives celebrates the victory of Mohammed Thakurufaanu over the Portuguese colonizers during the year 1573. During the year 1558, the Portuguese had attacked the Maldives and killed the then Sultan of the island, ending up in the colonization of the country. It was when Mohammed Thakurufaanu, along with his companions, had arrived in the Maldives and succeeded in ending the Portuguese colonial rule, thus, liberating the Maldives. The National Day of Maldives is usually highlighted by various parades and root marches all over the island. Parties are also held during the night, when locals and tourists share the enjoyment of food and cocktails, which are elements of a good time. During the National Day, the tourists could experience a part of Maldivian history and its rich culture. The National Day is celebrated more extravagantly in the capital city, Male, where the local people and tourists could easily gather and witness the parades and root marches. Male is also the place to find most of the tourist attractions in the Maldives.

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Banana Boat

My flight back to Liberia was scheduled to depart at 2:30 p.m., and I intended to spend every moment of my last morning in Manuel Antonio in the sun and surf.

After an enormous breakfast of fruit, pancakes and scrambled eggs at The Falls Resort, I began the long walk toward the coast. I collected my French Canadian friends along the way, and the four of us set up camp near the lifeguard stand at the beach.

As I organized a game of Frisbee, the chief lifeguard sounded his whistle and sprinted to the water with a surfboard. Manuel Antonio’s public beach is notorious for powerful currents, and even strong swimmers can find themselves caught up in the riptide. The lifeguard swam out a few hundred feet in a matter of minutes, and used the board to tow a teenager to shore. This drill repeated itself at least once every hour, and each time we marveled at how the vigilant lifeguards were able to spot the troubled swimmers.

Young coconuts known as pipas

I could have passed the entire day flicking the Frisbee back and forth – the best were the throws either too high or too low, when we leapt dramatically in order to complete the catch.  Our simple pastime came to a grinding halt when the disc landed in the foamy part of a wave.

Although it had only disappeared for a few seconds, it was nowhere to be found – the ocean seemed to have swallowed it whole. I scoured the shore for twenty minutes until a group of local children offered to help. I promised a reward of 500 colones, roughly one dollar, to whoever could find it.

Those adorable children searched and searched for that Frisbee. Every 15 minutes they delivered me a status report: “We’re sorry miss, but we haven’t got it yet – but we’ll find it, don’t worry.” I came to know them as “the Frisbee kids.” It took quite a lot of convincing to get them to disassemble the search party, but the disc was long gone.

Around noon, Miguel from Aguas Azules asked if we wanted to take a ride on the “banana boat,” a curved inflatable tube connected to a speedboat by a long rope. Up to six people sit single file as the speedboat zips around the bay, making sharp turns in an attempt to toss people off the banana.

Seated at the front, it was my job to keep the boat balanced and upright. The driver twisted and turned the boat, trying his best to pitch us into the sea. It took him three tries. After much suspense, all six of us crumbled into a heap of lifejackets in the water.

Banana Boat Wave

As if this wasn’t enough diversion for one day, we rented kayaks and paddled a challenging 45 minutes to Isla Larga, a rocky island offshore. Every muscle in my arms burned by the time we got back, but the pain was completely worth it. To re-energize, I suggested that the French Canadians taste some electrolyte-rich pipas, which are young, green coconuts sold everywhere in Costa Rica.

“You guys haven’t tried pipas yet. Man, you are going to love pipas. Pipas are my favorite thing about Costa Rica. I’m going to get you some pipas right now.” I stared at them in shock as they fell to the ground laughing. Never in my life have I seen anyone so hysterical – they were actually crying. After a good five minutes, they informed me that the Spanish word “pipa” is French for “fellatio.”

View from airplane

On this lighthearted note, it was time for me to return to The Falls Resort for checkout. I packed my things, had a quick shower and grabbed a taxi to the Quepos airport.

Traveling on Costa Rica’s domestic airlines is a pleasure – the tiny aircrafts instill a sense of camaraderie that you won’t find on commercial airlines. Guests are seated very close to one another, often chatting and sharing snacks as if they were on a school field trip. Preparing for departure, I watched the pilots run their fingers over the switchboards. The plane took off and I instantly fell asleep.

For more info, see our Quepos and Manuel Antonio travel guide.

Related posts:

1. Day 4: Parasailing Manuel Antonio
2. Adventures in Quepos and Manuel Antonio
3. Day 7: A Manuel Antonio Walk in the Park

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View from the top of the falls

Some call it waterfall rappelling, and others call it canyoning – I just call it intense.

I began the day by eating an amazing breakfast with seven complete strangers in the countryside. Quepos Canyoning had collected us from our hotels a half an hour earlier, and deposited us in the small town of Naranjito, on the outskirts of Quepos. Our guide, Anthony, gave us a tour of his unique operation while his wife prepared a delicious plate of fruit and omelets.  After breakfast we piled into the back of a vehicle that looked suspiciously like a restored prison van.

After some jokes and a few photos, we found ourselves bumping along back roads to the waterfall. Within fifteen minutes, the van stopped. Our driver and guides cheerfully said, “welcome to the middle of nowhere.” They added, “and that’s according to the GPS.” We got out of the van and took in our surroundings. All that could be heard were the sounds of the waterfall and hidden cicadas humming in the trees. We really were in the middle of nowhere.

Rock Climbing

Anthony led us to a trail, where we hiked single-file up a surprisingly steep hill. The wind carried bits of interesting conversation to my position toward the back of the line. Anthony informed us that the cicada lives underground 17 years before emerging – and upon reaching the surface it has but 25 days to mate and reproduce before it dies. It’s no wonder that these bugs scream all the time.

Before we knew it, the 90-foot Indian Waterfalls were upon us. We found ourselves at the top of an enormous precipice, looking at the water gushing underneath. One by one, Anthony hooked us into harnesses and strapped us to a complex system of ropes leading to the bottom.  He instructed us to lean back and look up at the sky, with one hand at the top of the rope and the other near our tailbones. Then we should release our ‘back brake’ and jump like bunnies until we reached the pool below.

While the concept was simple, having real faith in the system was another story. Luckily, I was the designated photographer for the trip and was able to watch everyone else go first. When my turn finally rolled around, I had witnessed seven adventurers make it safely to the bottom.

I stepped onto the rock and could feel the water running through my toes. My first tentative bunny hop was fairly smooth, and landed me about a foot closer to the bottom. This wouldn’t be so bad.

Waterfall rappelling (left) and rock climbing (right)

SPLASH!

Anthony decided that it would be fun to drench me with a bucket of water as I descended.  Although I could hardly see what was going on, I must admit the experience had become a lot more exciting.

When I finally reached the water below, I released the ropes and propelled myself off the rock face. Even though it had taken me twice as long as everyone else, splashing into the water was a proud moment.

Climbing close up

Anthony asked why I had been so careful. “Well, I’m in between health insurance plans so I am being extra cautious.”  Before I even finished the sentence, seven people had exploded into laughter. “Rappelling down a waterfall is your idea of cautious?” they said. Correction: rappelling down a waterfall carefully is my skewed definition of cautious.

With ropes and pulleys, we took turns climbing up to the top of the falls and plummeting down once more.  One person came down smoothly, while others stumbled. Another flailed about pathetically. Of course there is one showoff in every crowd, and she catapulted down like a pro – her record time was one minute and seven seconds. The whole experience was usually funny, sometimes frightening, and always a rush.

The end

Dripping wet and high on adrenaline, we continued along a short path to the “monkey drop,” a 45-foot free fall. A zip line cable connected to two trees took me, the first victim, over a freshwater pool. Incredibly afraid of heights, this was a big step. “Right hand on your head!” Anthony instructed. I fumbled around, momentarily forgetting which one was which. With the proper hand behind my head and the other on my harness, I suddenly dropped straight to the ground.  A blood curdling scream escaped my lips as I splashed into the water below. Then I did it again.

After everyone had done the monkey drop two or three times, we were served warm sugar cane juice and cookies. The adrenaline would continue to pump through my veins for the next hour or so, until I returned to town. It was a rush to push my body to such physical limits, and overcoming my fear of heights made me feel powerful. I couldn’t wait to do it again.

For more info, see our Quepos and Manuel Antonio travel guide.

Related posts:

1. Adventures in Quepos and Manuel Antonio
2. 3-Day Arenal Getaway
3. Day 4: Hiking the Savegre Waterfall and Bosque del Tolomuco

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Underwater Photography: Snapshots of the Wonders of the Sea

In the world of underwater photography,  because of all the potential beauty that one can harness with each dive. Its no secret that one can easily develop love for underwater photography. There is a growing population of underwater photography hobbyist and that is why there is now a huge market for it. Cameras used for underwater photography is constantly changing and improving. Manufacturers are aiming to create better underwater cameras that are easier to use, much more durable and can capture much greater detail. The amazing convenience of digital cameras made photography a much more enjoyable hobby or profession since it is abolished the painstaking process of developing. Not to mention you no longer have to be wary when taking shots since its all digital. We have all seen the great shots of fish and amazing marine life in the sea. Before underwater photography was not really an option for a lot of people. But times have changed, photography can now be for everyone and everyone should try underwater photography.

Underwater Photography

What Is Underwater Photography?

Underwater photography obviously is just what its name implies. Photographs taken underwater. It is safe to assume that underwater photography became a popular hobby because there is just so much beauty under the sea. When there is beauty there is happiness and happiness is always something you would want to share. Underwater photography became popular because scuba divers could see underwater they wanted to share with others.

Documentaries, Movies, National Geographic films all use underwater photography to teach, inspire and tell stories about life underwater.

Underwater Photography Techniques

On a more technical note underwater photography equipment can be both simple or complex, all depending on what kind of photography you would like to employ. Simple cameras range from the disposable ones which are ideal for vacations and amateurs. Disposable underwater cameras typically use film and can be developed at any developing center. You can expect great underwater images even from disposable cameras. But if you are an avid underwater photographer with advanced skills then you will probably not settle for disposable cameras. Some cameras are originally not made for underwater use, but some manufacturers develop add on casings specifically for their cameras so that they can be used for underwater photography and can withstand the pressure underwater.

The Maldives is a great destination for underwater photography

Underwater Photography Tips.

• Depth and transparency of the water. The deeper you go the less light is available and of course if the water is murky then not much can be seen.

• Light. Cameras usually function best when there is a lot of available light, should there is no adequate light then an alternative light source most commonly known as a camera flash should be used.

• Backscatter. When the flash or strobe light reflect back due to particles in the water, showing specks of light in the photo.

Don’t just scuba dive and keep all the beauty to yourself, make the most out of it and share what you see with others. Do underwater photography.

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Manuel Antonio National Park

Today was the quietest day our guide had experienced in his entire four years leading tourists through Manuel Antonio National Park. Go figure.

The park is incredibly biodiverse, boasting 380 species of plants, 109 mammals, 185 birds and 78 species of fish within its 137,605 land and marine acres. On a typical day, we should have spotted at least a few sloths, monkeys, iguanas or toucans within minutes of the tour. Our guide, Miguel, claimed 15 as the record number of sloths he had seen in the first half mile of the park’s Sloth Trail. Today, the animals remained out of sight until the moment someone in our group commented, “Well, I guess if we wanted to see guaranteed animals we’d have gone to the zoo.”

Three-toed sloth

Unsurprisingly, the deluge of wildlife started with a three-toed sloth. It was covered with greenish-brown algae that helps it hide from the harpy eagle, one of its major predators.  Miguel was a genuine encyclopedia on sloths, and he knew all sorts of interesting tidbits – like how they are related to the anteater, and sleep for up to 17 hours per day. They also eat a completely vegetarian diet, and only tolerate one male per tree at a time.

Perhaps the most entertaining fact he shared had to do with waste management. Sloths leave their trees once a week to defecate, doing their business at the base of the tree they are about to depart in order to confuse predators. The one exception to this rule is when two males are fighting for territory (in slow motion, of course), when the victor will push the loser to the ground and poop on its head.

Manuel Antonio estuary crossing

Moving on, a skittish agouti flitted across the path, followed by a mother and baby white-tailed deer. We then saw a family of howler monkeys and a gigantic blue morpho – a short-lived butterfly that graces the world with its presence for a mere 72 hours before perishing.

Our guide explained that if we ever lost our way in the woods we could survive with the help of icky termites, both as a protein source and a natural insect repellent when crushed and applied to the skin.

Howler monkey

Because I have visited so many places in Costa Rica, including the Osa Peninsula, I was not expecting to find any flora or fauna that I had not seen before. I was thrilled when Miguel pointed out the rainbow grasshopper, also known as the green and gold solanum grasshopper.

This toxic bug’s bright colors serve as a defensive mechanism that warns other species not to eat it. I was shocked to discover that my ATV tour guide last Monday was not entirely joking about the existence of poisonous grasshoppers.

Lizard seen through the scope

By the time we reached the beach, everyone had lost count of how many animals we had observed. Perhaps the most precious of them all were the adorable squirrel monkeys that in Costa Rica can only be found in two locales: Manuel Antonio and the Osa Peninsula. These primates are particularly curious and intelligent – and they watched us just as intently as we watched them.

Once we reached Manuel Antonio’s stunning beach, the cove beckoned me to snorkel. Friendly park rangers patrol the coastline, warding off mischievous mammals – namely raccoons, coatimundis and monkeys – trying to rob snacks from visitors’ bags. As I left the park, a couple of rangers were in hot pursuit of three of raccoons that had stolen a woman’s purse, presumably containing food. A crowd applauded when the handbag slipped from one of the racoon’s paws as it scampered up a Guanacaste tree.

Mischievous Raccoon

It was Saturday and I decided to meet some friends and explore Manuel Antonio’s nightlife. A number of locals had recommended Raphael’s La Terraza, and I made my way down the winding hill toward the water. After befriending all of the waiters, I met a special trio that included an airline pilot and two mechanical engineers from Quebec: François, Vincent, and Pascal.

The group affectionately took me in as their fourth Musketeer – D’Artagnan – and we played a friendly game of Texas Hold’em with peanuts back at their pool. We laughed and swapped stories and card tips well into the night – my favorite being the tale of how Pascal won large sums of money playing poker with his sister one summer.  Because she would wear sunglasses to hide her pathetic poker face, hand after hand he was able to see her cards reflected in the metallic shades.

I don’t know if it is the sun, the surf, the “pura vida” culture, or a combination of all three, but it never ceases to amaze me how Costa Rica attracts so many easy-going and gregarious travelers from all over the world.

For more info, see our Quepos and Manuel Antonio travel guide.

Related posts:

1. Adventures in Quepos and Manuel Antonio
2. Day 4: Parasailing Manuel Antonio
3. Day 6: A Manuel Antonio Massage

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My suite at The Falls Resort

I awoke with sore arms at 5:59 a.m. (exactly one minute before the alarm went off), thinking about yesterday’s huge sailfish success. After a shower I grabbed a mango for breakfast from the supermarket on the road between Quepos and Manuel Antonio. While these tropical fruits are available year-round in Costa Rica, they seem sweetest during the months of January and February – and the stickiest, messiest kinds are always the best.

I took a taxi to The Falls Resort, my hotel for the next few nights in Manuel Antonio. I was impressed by the hotel’s beautiful landscaping and attention to detail. Opening the door to my air conditioned suite, I marveled at the bed littered with fragrant flower petals. An hour after settling in, it was time for my day with Evelina Bolognini, the owner of Holis Spa.

Pilates

Five years had elapsed since my last Pilates class, and I had forgotten how intense the exercise could be. Derived from yoga and with a similar emphasis on stretching, Pilates is focused on strengthening the core and lengthening the spine. Evelina gave me a private class to demonstrate specific movements and breathing exercises – including my favorite, “rolling like a ball.”

After so much exercise, I was ready for a restful “Total Body Awareness” massage. This unique treatment combines deep tissue, reflexology, Thai massage, osteopathy and acupressure techniques, with the goal of helping patients better understand and care for their bodies.

Massage table

I filled out a general health questionnaire and discussed it with Evelina. Having been trained in body work and holistic therapies, she had a sixth sense for finding her clients’ aches and pains. “Everyone’s body is unique,” she said. “Giving a massage is like reading a book. I can read the history and energy in your muscles with my hands, just like I could read a written biography about your life with my eyes.”

By simply rubbing my legs and feet she surmised a wealth of information about my health history, including items not reported on the survey. Every hour that passed felt like 15 minutes, as Evelina worked the fibers of my arms, hands, neck and shoulders. She sometimes hit a trigger point and my body would twitch, signifying the effects would be particularly long lasting.  Just when I thought my back had fused with the massage table, it was time to flip onto my stomach for another hour.

Organic products

By the end of the massage I felt like a wobbly gelatin mold. Best of all, my spa day wasn’t even finished. I rinsed the massage oils off and prepared for a 75-minute Essenthya facial.

An esthetician named Michelle led me into another room, where several bowls and vials were laid out on a table. Every single component of my treatment would be completely organic, from the cleansing volcanic clay to the soothing aloe grown in their backyard.

Michelle assessed my skin type, and decided that tamarind would be the best exfoliating cleanser for my sensitive dermis. There was no scrubbing since the enzymes naturally removed the dead skin cells. A clay and yogurt cleanser, vinegar toner, and tamarind exfoliate were applied.

Chocolate face mask

Next, she covered my face with a cooling chocolate mask and placed chamomile tea bags over my eyelids. The caffeine in the chocolate acted as a stimulant for blood circulation, but it also made me hungry.

I relaxed for 20 minutes before she removed the mask with a hot towel, and then proceeded to pat my face with aloe. After a massage with essential oil blends, my skin was flawless.

At 5:00 p.m., I floated out of Holis Spa in a delicious trance. In no condition to walk home, I plopped down at the bus stop and tried my best to stay alert. When I returned to The Falls Resort, I melted into my enormous bed and enjoyed the deepest sleep of my life.

For more info, see our Quepos and Manuel Antonio travel guide.

Related posts:

1. Day 6 Manuel Antonio: Rainforest Spices & A Healing Massage
2. Adventures in Quepos and Manuel Antonio
3. Manuel Antonio

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Maldives Dive Sites

The following is our definitive guide to the five best Maldives Dive Sites. At these Maldives Dive Sites, you can expect to see some of the finest marine life in the world.

Maldives Dive Site #1 – Fotteyo Kandu

Many scuba divers consider Fotteyo Kandu to be the best Maldives dive site and it is also rated among the top 5 dive sites in the world. The mouth of the channel is exposed to the ocean and during north east monsoon when the currents are incoming, a good variety of fish species gather at the entrance to the channel.  Animals commonly spotted at Fotteyo Kandu include Gray Reef Shark patrolling the channel mouth, Jack and Tuna in the deeper water, schools of Midnight Snappers and Red Snapper form in huge groups. The wall features caves, overhangs and swim-thoughs at different depths. These caves and overhangs are filled with colourful yellow color like soft coral, deeper caves and overhangs are filled with huge bushes of black corals. The Thila in the middle of the channel entrance is the best place to do the safety stop.  A surface balloon is a must at Fotteyo Kandu.

Maldives Dive Site Fotteyo Kandu

Maldives Dive Site #2 – Maaya Thila

Maaya Thila is one of the best Maldives dive sites for a night dive. The dive boat is usually fixed to the mooring and a line is used for the ascent and descent for safety reasons.  A strobe light is attached to the rope at 5 meters to identify the rope underwater.

On the Maaya Thila night dive, divers get to experience swimming close to White Tip Reef Sharks. Turtles rest inside caves / overhangs, while Moray Eels and White Tip Sharks hunt the vulnerable Fusiliers. Octopus and Stone Fish can be found around the top reef. The caves where the crevices are found are the ideal place for people who are interested in macro photography. Here you will find Cleaner Shrimps, Ghost Pipe Fish and many more seldom-seen species.

Maldives Dive Site Maaya Thila is a Reef Shark Hotspot

The Maaya Thila night dive is a must for all scuba divers visiting the Maldives and is a one-of-a-kind dive.

Maldives Dive Site #3 – Rangali Madivaru

Madi in the local language of the Maldives, means “Ray”, hence the name Madivaru for this Maldives dive site, which is also known as Hukrueli Faru.  During the North East Monsoon, Madivaru is a superb Manta Ray cleaning station. The coral reef slopes down gently from its highest point at 8 meters to the Atoll floor at about 30 meters.

There are many cleaning stations along this 1 km reef, but the point where the Manta Rays are most active is halfway along the northern side. Current at Madivaru can be strong at times and can create a funnel effect due to the coral reef formation.  Divers should be prepared to make a safety stop in open water at Madivaru and a safety balloon is necessary.

Manta Rays Gather at Maldives Dive Sites

Maldives Dive Site #4 – HP Reef

If you were asked to choose the best Maldives dive site between HP Reef and Nassimo Thila, the wise thing to do would be vote for both and rank them both equally as they are two of the most spectacular sites in the Maldives. Both HP Reef and display excellent soft coral growth and an abundant fish life. The best diving at HP Reef is found on the southern side of the reef and when the current is flowing into the Atoll (East to West). During mild current, you should swim slowly, while observing the coral blocks, caves and overhangs. The coral blocks and the caves at HP Reef are filled with multicolored soft coral and you should keep your eyes open for the many invertebrates, including nudibranchs, leaf fish and many more. Eagle Rays, schooling Silver Jacks and Batfish are common at HP Reef.  Strong currents are sometimes found at this Maldives dive site and a surface balloon is necessary.

Maldives Dive Site #5 – Nassimo Thila

Nassimo Thila is an oval-shaped Thila displaying a good variety of colourful, soft corals. The most interesting aspect of this Maldives Dive Site is the randomly scattered pinnacles. Spend as much time as possible around the scattered pinnacles but limit your depth to maximize bottom time as the scattered pinnacles go down to more than 30 meters.

Currents at Nassimo Thila are usually strong, so it is only recommended for advanced divers.  Depending on the strength of the currents, many pelagics can be seen near the coral reef at Nassimo Thila or in the deeper water just off the reefs, including Giant Trevallies, Jacks, Dogtooth Tuna and many more. A surface balloon is a must as this Maldives dive site is subjected to heavy boat traffic from the nearby resort island

Click here for a complete guide to Maldives Dive Sites.

Nassimo Thila is an oval-shaped Thila displaying a good variety of colourful, soft corals. The most interesting aspect of Nassimo Thila is the randomly scattered pinnacles. Spend as much time as possible around the scattered pinnacles but limit your depth to maximize bottom time as the scattered pinnacles go down to more than 30 meters.

Currents at Nassimo Thila are usually strong, so it is only recommended for advanced divers.  Depending on the strength of the currents, many pelagics can be seen near the coral reef at Nassimo Thila or in the deeper water just off the reefs, including Giant Trevallies, Jacks, Dogtooth Tuna and many more. A surface balloon is a must as the dive site is subjected to heavy boat traffic from the nearby resort island.

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Christian with sailfish

If you had asked me two years ago my favorite pastime, I never in a million years would have answered “sport fishing.” Back then, I felt that angling just wasn’t my scene. Now, after three amazing excursions in different parts of the country, sport fishing is one of my top things to do in Costa Rica.

Today, Samuel from Quepos Sailfishing Charters had invited me to spend the whole day on the luxurious Moonwalker – a 33’ Dawson vessel rigged with Twin Cummins 405 horsepower inboard engines. Driving to the Quepos marina, Sam explained that his company represents over 120 boats equipped with top-of-the-line gear like global GPS systems, ultrasonic fish finders, and Penn International rods and reels that we would be using today. While I wasn’t precisely sure what all of that meant, I was impressed.

Genna with 120-pound sailfish

We arrived at the dock around 7:00 a.m., but before boarding the boat I had to purchase a fishing license for $25. Expecting the credential to be a colorful version of my driver’s license, I bounced over to the appropriate booth in excitement. Instead of a shiny new conversation piece, I received a bland cardboard square with a 2011 expiry date and my name printed on it – no head shot and no images of fishing in action.

My disappointment evaporated as soon as I laid eyes on the Moonwalker. It was somehow more beautiful than promised. January is one of the best months for offshore fishing in the Quepos area, and I was thrilled to be participating.

Fishing in action

In addition to Samuel, I was in the good hands of mates Christian and Dempsey, and captain Franklin. As we pulled away from the marina, the crew granted me free reign of the boat. If I wanted to ride up top with the captain or nap below the deck, I didn’t even have to ask.

After an hour of traveling, we finally reached our target point 23 miles offshore – prime waters for Pacific sailfish, marlin, mahi mahi, wahoo and tuna. The mates baited our lines and slowed our pace considerably, as we all watched “the spread” – a fishing term for the rods.

Baiting the lines with ballyhoo

We waited and we waited. At such a distance from the mainland, the sea emits a surreal cobalt blue color, almost like a computer generated image (CGI) special effect. The water even seems to ripple in slow motion, creating the illusion that it might lead to another dimension.

From this vantage point the curvature of the earth is breathtaking, and I could see why sailors used to think they would topple right off the edge of the world if they got too close.

Fishing like a pro

As I stripped down to my swimsuit to take advantage of the sun, the mates conversely covered every inch of their bodies with protective clothing. Samuel handed me a Pilsen beer, and upon my first sip, we got a bite – a big bite. The entire boat descended into chaos as we scurried every which way attempting to reel it in. The mates made sure the fish was hooked before handing me the rod.

I had the option of standing upright with a support belt around my waist, or sitting in a swivel chair. They explained that while the chair isn’t for wimps, it doesn’t merit the same caliber bragging rights as the belt. I opted for the belt.

The Moonwalker

I regretted this decision within five minutes. I reeled and reeled and reeled, until I was certain that my arms would fall off – and then I reeled some more. Samuel taught me how to conserve energy by relaxing while the fish takes line. The simple mantra, “reel down, pull up, reel down, pull up,” was helpful. Once I mastered that, the crew demonstrated how to guide the line back and forth along the spool so that it distributed evenly as I reeled – otherwise it would get tangled up in one section.  Twenty exhilarating minutes zoomed by in what seemed like ten, and it soon became clear that I had caught a sailfish. The suspense was intoxicating as we waited for it to jump out of the water.

As Christian hoisted the 120-pound creature up for a photo-op, the animal nearly took him overboard. This fish was otherworldly. It was followed by another sailfish that I somehow managed to catch in half the time.

Extreme close up!

By now, everyone was ravenous. Dempsey prepared fresh sandwiches for us to enjoy along with succulent pineapple. The crew was incredibly attentive. Before I could even think about finishing my beer, Christian was by my side, cracking open another. After a couple of rounds of this I begged him to stop – if I continued to drink alcohol in such heat they would soon be fishing me out of the water.

The rods lit up five more times in the next few hours, always at the exact moment we would begin to snack. I really wanted to catch a tuna for raw sashimi, but I kept landing sailfish. Finally, we settled into a lull. The crew released six of our nine hookups (three got away) in the course of the day.

During the voyage back to the mainland, I took a nap on the bow of the boat, looking out for sea turtles and dolphins. There was positively no other place I would rather be.

For more info, see our guides to Quepos and Manuel Antonio and sport fishing in Costa Rica.

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Scuba Diving Hall of Fame Celebrates 10th Anniversary

The International SCUBA Diving Hall of Fame is hosting its 10th anniversary awards banquet and induction ceremony Saturday, 30 January, at Pedro St James. Eleven persons will be honoured for their contributions to the growth of SCUBA diving as a sport and for their contributions in the fields of dive travel, entertainment, art, equipment design and development, education, exploration and adventure.

Scuba Diving Hall of Fame

Scuba Diving Hall of Fame Founded in 2000

Founded in 2000 by the Ministry of Tourism, the Cayman Islands is home to the ISDHF, created to establish a link between the Cayman Islands, a premiere diving destination, and diving enthusiasts worldwide who have made significant contributions to the recreational SCUBA diving industry.

New Members of Scuba Diving Hall of Fame

The 2010 inductees are Dr Eugenie Clark, known affectionately as the “shark lady,” a world-renowned ichthyologist and authority on sharks; Benoit Rouquayrol, who developed, patented and manufactured a self-contained breathing apparatus that became the first production SCUBA diving system; Wyland, a marine life artist and leading advocate for marine resource conservation; Nick Icorn, a diving pioneer regarded as the “keeper of the flame” for preserving diving’s illustrious history through his collection of representative samples of diving gear; Professor Louis Boutan, the first diver to take underwater photos; Francis Toribiong, who started the first dive operation in Palau and discovered the Blue Corner, one of the most famous dive sites in the world; Henry Albert Fleuss, who produced the first practical and successful closed-circuit breathing apparatus; Commandant Yves Le Prieur, who co-founded the world’s first recreational SCUBA diving club in 1935; and Auguste Denayrouze, who worked with the inventor Benoit Rouquayrol to develop and manufacture the self-contained breathing apparatus, and successfully marketed it internationally.

Dr. Eugenie Clark Shark Lady

The early pioneer awards for Professor Louis Boutan, Henry Albert Fleuss, Commandant Yves Le Prieur, Benoit Rouquayrol and Auguste Denayrouze will be given posthumously.

Each year, the Ministry of Tourism also honours Caymanians, paying tribute to the important role they played transforming the Cayman Islands into the premier diving destination that it is today. This year’s local honourees are Charles Ebanks, known locally as Captain Chuckie, and Patrick Noel Evans.

Special guests will be Ron and Valerie Taylor, who filmed the live shark sequences and underwater action footage in film and TV productions including Jaws, Orca and the Blue Lagoon; Sylvia Munro, who received the first early pioneer award on behalf of her father who made the silent movie version of 20,000 Leagues Under The Sea in 1915; Dan Orr, President of DAN; and the Minister of Natural Resources, Environment & Tourism for the Palau Islands, Hon. Harry Fritz.

Also at the event on Saturday night, artifacts which have been collected for the planned Hall of Fame building will be displayed, including a customized wet suit from the movie The Daring Game, starring Lloyd Bridges; a circa 1947 La Spirotechnique Cousteau & Gagnan CG 45 regulator, recreational diving’s first production regulator; and a pair of Sea Net wooden diving fins circa late 1940s.

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Rainbow Parasail

Although it is difficult for me to complete tasks requiring nominal coordination before 10:00 a.m., I could not resist a Thursday morning session at Sivana Yoga in Manuel Antonio.

I left Condotel Las Cascadas early to catch the 7:45 a.m. bus from Quepos. The Vinyasa yoga lesson was taught by a serious instructor named Silvia Gfeller. Silvia’s style struck the perfect balance between gentle stretching and sweaty cardio – precisely what I needed so early in the day. The studio is located directly above Restaurant Anaconda, and it didn’t take long before everyone in class was distracted by the incredible smell of French toast wafting through the floorboards. Ninety minutes and 15 sun salutations later, six yoga students marched downstairs in single file to eat back every calorie we had just worked so diligently to burn off.

Side plank at Sivana Yoga

The French toast did not disappoint, and after a mouthwatering breakfast I strolled down to the beach. Weaving through the shaded marketplace that lines the public shore, dozens of chatty vendors offered wares displayed under colorful tents. As I approached the beach, I could see the staff of Aguas Azules, a parasailing tour operator, setting up a giant rainbow parachute in preparation for flight.

Introducing myself to the company’s animated manager, Miguel, I buzzed with excitement as we watched a young boy take off into the sky.  One instant he was on the ground, and the next he wasn’t. I couldn’t wait to do it myself.

Manuel Antonio view

Miguel explained just how little skill is involved in the art of parasailing. “You just hold your arms out like this, and walk forward,” he said, holding his arms out like a ‘T.’ “Anybody can do it.” I thought to myself, “That’s all there is to parasailing? That was it?”
That was it.

Soon it was my turn to soar. The canopy sat deflated behind me, attached to a harness and two lightweight ropes – one for each of my hands. A 135-foot cord led from the parachute to the boat. As the watercraft moved forward, it tugged gently on the line. I took ten or twelve small steps when suddenly my legs were dangling in the air, and I was flying.

I cannot describe the sense of calm that washed over me 600 feet above the ground. Expecting the atmosphere to be terribly loud and windy, it was a pleasant surprise to find the exact opposite: perfect silence. I relaxed as gravity pulled me backward and delicately into the harness, making it impossible to fall out.

As breathtaking as Manuel Antonio’s bays and coves are from the ground, they are even more spectacular when viewed from the sky. Birds must be the most carefree creatures alive. Although I was clearly in the spotlight, the sensation somehow made me feel completely invisible. I could see everyone moving around like little dots on the ground, but felt as if absolutely no one could see me. It was stunning.

Parasailing view of the bay

My mind drifted off into a reflective state – to that quiet place I am always trying to reach through yoga and meditation, but can never quite achieve due to yammering thoughts. The intense scenery and overwhelming solitude were a great deal to absorb, and I realized why people do extreme sports.

The speedboat made a yawning curve toward Manuel Antonio National Park, and around Isla Larga (Big Island). Here, I spotted a pair of kayakers, a family of dolphins and a sea turtle. From up above, everything moves gracefully and in slow motion.

Attached to the boat by one cord

Once my fifteen minutes in the sun were spent, I could sense the parachute losing altitude. The captain lowered me slowly – just enough to splash my feet into the water – before speeding up again and swinging me back toward the sky. He repeated the amusing drill three or four times, until I felt like a human skipping stone.

After landing, I unclipped myself from the equipment and walked back to the lifeguard stand. What a rush. I wanted nothing more than to sprint up and down the beach, dragging people to Aguas Azules and demanding that everyone parasail. Thankfully, this wasn’t necessary. There was already a long line of eager spectators awaiting their turns.

For more info, see our Quepos and Manuel Antonio travel guide.

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