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Day 10: Honeymoon Relaxation

Gerry — Wed, 24 Feb 2010 11:14:49 +0000

Sunrise over the Pacific

For me, there’s something magical about watching the sun make its upward arc, and I love to hear the world wake up. This morning, I grabbed my camera and ventured out to enjoy the dawn. To my surprise, the Pacific beach had a beautiful view of the rising sun. Its reflection glistened on the shore, changing form and length in union with the ocean’s ebb and flow. I was reminded that nature’s scenes need no alteration – they naturally take your breath away.

During my hour-long walk, I scoured the sand for seashells, ocean rock, and sand dollars. I was delighted to find several colorful stones and unique shells, but the morning’s most prized bounty was the 15 sand dollars I collected. Large and small, each was white and almost perfectly round, a wonderful honeymoon souvenir.

Fabian and I spent the day together, enjoying the endless beach and Timarai’s grounds. The ocean borders Palo Seco’s western side while an estuary defines its eastern limits; the thin strip of land, technically a small peninsula, is often called an island. We walked to the estuary side, observing the mangroves and waterfowl.

Palo Seco beach seems endless

The tranquil day was certainly the trip’s most uneventful, or so we thought until the evening. As I prepped for dinner, Fabian called up to me, his voice wavering, “I think there’s a bat in the house!” I was certain he was pulling my leg, but when I walked downstairs, I found a small, brown bat clinging to the curtains.

When I first visited Costa Rica, I was afraid of any animal or creepy crawly that wasn’t domesticated, but naturalist tours have alleviated many of those fears. The small mammal didn’t scare me at all; rather, I was excited to liberate it. The poor creature seemed scared – how it entered our suite is anyone’s guess – and we began brainstorming a rescue plan. Opening the double doors, I guided the curtain out into the open air. The bat, confused for a moment, made as if to re-enter the suite, but with a bit of encouragement, chose the great outdoors, hopping off the curtain and scampering away.

Liberating our bat

You read that right: he scampered! I had thought, like a ladybug freed from human hands, the bat would fly away. Instead, it waddled around the porch before walking down the stairs and off into the night. It was both bewildering and hysterical, and we wished it well.

Tomorrow Fabian and I would return home, our 10-day journey at an end. Our honeymoon in paradise had been even better than imagined, and we were already planning a trip for our first anniversary.

Planning a Costa Rica honeymoon? See our suggestions for a honeymoon in paradise.

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Day 9: Sand Dollars and a Beachfront Dinner

Gerry — Tue, 23 Feb 2010 05:15:11 +0000

Our beachfront suite

They say that a beach full of life indicates a healthy marine environment. If that’s true, then Playa Palo Seco is one of the healthiest I’ve ever seen. This vast stretch of secluded beach teems with sand dollars, hermit crabs, tiny snails, and ghost crabs – in addition to polished stones and colorful shells ideal for collections.

That morning, Fabian and I enjoyed another enormous, room service breakfast before checking out of Makanda by the Sea. We took the public bus 25 miles north to Parrita, a dusty town just a few miles from our final destination: Timarai Bamboo Resort on Playa Palo Seco. The pristine white-sand expanse ran for miles but was nearly deserted.

Live sand dollar

Xavier, the resort’s Spanish owner, showed us to our beachfront suite, Air, named for one of the four classical elements (Earth, Fire, Air, and Water). The suite was an eco-friendly cottage constructed from natural woods and adobe, and I was fascinated with the curved walls and bamboo beams. Our bedroom overlooked a small terrace, and I immediately staked out the ocean-view hammock.

This was the last stop on our honeymoon itinerary, and we had decided to do absolutely nothing at all – the next 48 hours would be devoted to swimming, shelling, and serious relaxation. We strolled down the coastline, hand-in-hand, when I spotted the first sand dollar.

Sunset on Palo Seco Beach

The tiny, white circle was intact, half-buried in the sand. As I picked it up, it snapped in two – it was waterlogged, and gravity had taken its toll. I was crushed, thinking I had ruined my one and only chance at taking home a sand dollar, but Fabian urged me to keep looking. We continued our walk in the surf, running from the larger waves that crashed loudly on the shore.

As one of the bigger waves receded, I noticed a circular impression in the sand. Several seconds later, the impression grew more detailed and I saw markings appear within. Reaching down, I scooped up the sand dollar and washed it off in the sea. I had a brown sand dollar, very much alive.

We “oohed” and “aahed” at the flattened sea urchin for a moment. It was the first I had seen alive, and I marveled at its fuzzy spines and unfamiliar color. Placing it back in the sand, we watched it burrow underneath, hunkering down for the next wave. When it came, Fabian and I, now alert to the animals’ presence, watched as thousands of impressions appeared – the gorgeous beach was absolutely full of sand dollars.

A fabulous seafood feast

That evening, Xavier and his staff prepared us a lovely beachfront dinner. Tiki torches on either side of our table provided light (and bug-repelling citronella scents), and also created a romantic ambiance. After a gigantic salad, our host brought out a seafood feast: crab, clams, mussels, and fish sat atop a sizzling skillet, cooked to perfection in olive oil and garlic. Fabian and I enjoyed a beautiful dinner under the stars.

Planning a Costa Rica honeymoon? See our suggestions for a honeymoon in paradise.

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Day 8: Villa Vanilla and Kapi Kapi

Gerry — Sat, 20 Feb 2010 17:15:01 +0000

Room service at Makanda

Knock, knock. At 7:30 a.m., room service delivered a huge tray of goodies. The waiter unpacked our breakfasts – French toast for me and an omelet for Fabian – and garnished the table with homemade bread, a fruit plate, and fruit juice. The whole meal had a homespun taste, and reminded me how much I enjoy fresh, local foods.

The van from Villa Vanilla picked us up and we climbed into the mountainous outskirts of Quepos. Henry, the farm’s owner, greeted us with a friendly smile and announced he would be our guide. Villa Vanilla is a sustainable farm sitting on 152 acres – 27 acres are used for agriculture and 125 are designated as secondary forest. Using natural and organic methods, Villa Vanilla produces vanilla, black pepper, allspice, turmeric, cocoa, and Ceylon cinnamon.

Peppercorns, chili and vanilla drying in the sun

We began the tour with a taste-and-smell session. Did you know that there are more than 25,000 orchid species in the world, but vanilla is the only edible variety? We sampled the tasty interior seeds of vanilla pods, which are green and smooth before being sun-dried. As a hobbyist cook, my interest was already piqued – fresh vanilla tastes nothing like its imitation counterpart. The scent was headier and the taste incomparable; no wonder real vanilla bean ice cream is so mouthwatering!

Next, Henry cracked open a large, yellow-orange seedpod. The seeds were covered in moist, white pulp. He invited us each to take one, and I popped the sweet seed into my mouth. From previous experience, I knew this was cacao. Our guide explained that the ancient Maya, the creators of chocolate, considered cacao to be sacred. They always flavored their cacao with vanilla, and I could see why. The two flavors were delectable on their own, but together, they were positively ambrosial.

Green vanilla beans

Henry also showed us his recent crop of Ceylon cinnamon. Known in the spice world as “true cinnamon,” this species (Cinnamomum zeylanicum) is different from most supermarket cinnamon, or cassia (Cinnamomum aromaticum). Ceylon cinnamon has much lower levels of coumarin, a chemical compound some countries identify as unsafe for human consumption. On a more palatable note, Ceylon cinnamon is softer, lighter colored, and sweeter than cassia. Its aroma was gentle, but a quick nibble filled my palate with a sweet and spicy blend reminiscent of the cassia cinnamon I was used to.

We took a walk along the Epiphyte Trail, where Henry introduced us to fresh cardamom, allspice and green peppercorns, which tasted more tangy than spicy. Like tiny appetizers, all the scents and flavors tickled our appetites, and when we arrived at the scenic overlook, we were ready to taste something a little more substantial.

View from Villa Vanilla

From the shade of an open-air wood cabin, we sampled several organic treats prepared by Villa Vanilla’s pastry chef. We started with mandarin lime cheesecake topped with mango – the tart citrus contrasted perfectly with the sweet and silky fruit. He proffered a cinnamon chocolate chip cookie and cinnamon ice cream. What a treat! Next was a taste of chili-infused hot chocolate. The muted spice was delicious, though not for the faint of heart – several guests coughed from the stark flavor surge. We rounded out our spice tour with oatmeal chocolate cookies made from cacao nibs; I loved the strong, unsweetened flavor and decided to try it in my own cooking.

Beach at Manuel Antonio Park

We ended at the Spice Shoppe, where each of us stocked up on Ceylon cinnamon, vanilla beans, and cacao nibs. I was particularly excited to purchase the vanilla pods since I planned to make my own vanilla extract and vanilla sugar.

Fabian and I rested that afternoon, alternating between drinks poolside and wildlife watching. In our villa, I opened up the large, sliding windows, and the wall completely disappeared – our room was open to the great outdoors.

That evening, we had a dinner reservation at Kapi Kapi, one of Manuel Antonio’s most celebrated restaurants. The restaurant’s name means “welcome” in Maleku, the language of a Costa Rican indigenous tribe. As we walked through the front entrance, a chipper voice called out, “Bienvenidos! Welcome!”

Sunset at Makanda

Susan Krane, a jewelry artisan and world nomad, is the creator of the Global Gypsy Collection. She displays her one-of-a-kind pieces at Kapi Kapi each night, and was already fielding a crowd of interested buyers. Her jewelry was truly unique – using semi-precious stones such green and black jade, she created wearable works of art.

In the restaurant, tables were lit by candlelight and soft music played in the background. I reviewed the tempting cocktail menu, but settled on water and fruit juice to restore my energy after the sun-soaked day.

Our appetizers arrived, the delicious food carefully arranged to please both our eyes and taste buds. I ordered seared yellowfin tuna: the tartar fish slices were coated in a wasabi aioli and accompanied by avocado tempura. Thai chicken lettuce wraps were Fabian’s choice, and the mixture of ground chicken, sweet plum sauce, and chopped peanuts contrasted well with the crunchy lettuce.

Delicious appetizers at Kapi Kapi

For our entrees, we chose macadamia-encrusted mahi mahi and lobster ravioli, which had been recommended. The ravioli was filled with only the purest ingredients: fresh basil and lump lobster meat. It was topped with oven-roasted cherry tomatoes and a delicious saffron white butter sauce. The flavors melded in my mouth, and I knew why Kapi Kapi received such great reviews. Fabian agreed; his dish was delicately prepared to preserve the flavors of both the mahi mahi and macadamia crust.

Over iced coffee and artisan tea, we shared a hot chocolate souffle – he nibbled while I devoured (I love chocolate!). The souffle was simply the best I’d ever had, reminding me of a molten brownie. Accompanied by homemade vanilla ice cream, it was a decadent and delicious way to end the evening.

For more trip planning information, see our Manuel Antonio travel guide.

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Day 7: Rainforest luxury in Manuel Antonio

Gerry — Fri, 19 Feb 2010 11:15:01 +0000

Villa Alegre's breakfast spread

Over a delectable breakfast, we said our goodbyes to Villa Alegre; our three days in Tamarindo had flown by. At 7:30 a.m., the Interbus shuttle rolled up to the bed and breakfast. (I was still appreciative of their punctuality.) We picked up more passengers in Liberia for our trip to the central Pacific town of Manuel Antonio.

Though it is one of Costa Rica’s most visited locales, I had never been there, but my husband counted it among his favorite national destinations. He explained that a hilly coastal road connects Quepos and Manuel Antonio. Our hotel, Makanda by the Sea, was located in Manuel Antonio, but not beachfront – it was set in the hills overlooking Manuel Antonio National Park and the Pacific Ocean. From here, we’d have easy access to the area’s best restaurants and beaches. I was excited.

Mother and baby three-toed sloth

We pulled into Quepos around 1:30, and when two of our fellow passengers got out of the van, a wave of heat hit me. Tamarindo is known for its dry heat, but Manuel Antonio is much more humid. This balmy air struck me as distinctly beachy – I could almost smell the salt wafting off the ocean.

We pulled into Makanda’s large gate; the hotel was set back on a gravel road, and though we were close to the main drag, our rainforest surroundings were incredibly peaceful. A staff member loaded our luggage into a golf cart and set off for our room. En route, he stopped by a tree, where we saw a three-toed sloth and her baby. With such wildlife sightings and rainforest tranquility, I knew we were in for a treat.

Our villa at Makanda by the Sea

We opened the villa’s front door and were greeted by 1000 square feet of pure luxury. A king-sized canopy bed sat on a raised platform, while the spacious living room, kitchen, and indoor hammock graced the lower level. One wall of the villa was floor-to-ceiling glass, and the ocean view made my mouth drop. We looked out over a large cove, where sailboats and cabin cruisers wiled away the afternoon. This was paradise.

Fabian and I decided on an early dinner, and chose one of Manuel Antonio’s quirkiest landmarks: a restaurant built from an airplane. The old Fairchild C-123 sits high above the ocean, affording panoramic views. We chose the corner table – the best seat in the house for the evening’s sunset.

Manuel Antonio sunset

Over calamari rings and sirloin fajitas, we watched as the sun dipped over the rocky cliff face, its pink and peach rays reflecting off the ocean. A large island framed our view, creating a picturesque scene. As the glowing orb dipped lower, it turned progressively redder. Dark bands appeared around its circumference and, though it was still far from the horizon, it slowly disappeared into thin air.

Back at the hotel, we called the onsite restaurant to order tomorrow’s breakfast. At Makanda by the Sea, room service delivers the morning meal; as newlyweds, we thought breakfast in bed was a lavish touch. After placing our order, I succumbed to exhaustion, dove into the ultra-plush bed, and quickly fell asleep.

For more trip planning information, see our Manuel Antonio travel guide.

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Day 6: Palo Verde Wildlife & Guaitil Pottery

Gerry — Thu, 18 Feb 2010 06:14:53 +0000

Blue heron

The alarm sounded at 5:45 a.m., and I launched out of bed like a child on Christmas morning. I was giddy with excitement. Today we planned to visit Palo Verde National Park and Guaitil, an indigenous village known for its pottery.

Though it was still pitch black outside, Barry had risen early to prepare us a quick breakfast and snack packs to go. I was touched by such thoughtfulness – this is one reason why I love bed and breakfasts – and thanked Barry for his kindness.

Jacamar Naturalist Tours picked us up at 6:30 sharp. Our van was full, carrying about 20 people, and we began the 45-minute journey in high spirits. Palo Verde National Park has 15 distinct habitats including mangrove swamps, evergreen forest, marshes, and savannahs. Its diverse ecology attracts birds and wildlife, and the park is considered a waterfowl refuge for migratory and resident bird species. As a budding birder, I had brought along my field guide and eagle eyes – I couldn’t wait to spot herons, egrets, and other graceful species.

Green iguana

We drove past cantaloupe farms, sugar cane fields, and banana plantations before stopping at Hacienda El Viejo. A beautiful,18th century home stood guard over the surrounding sugar cane – the house and land had once belonged to Anastasio Somoza, former president of Nicaragua. Here, we relaxed in the shade, sipping a blackberry elixir and sampling juicy watermelon and bananas.

A 10-minute drive delivered us to the outskirts of Palo Verde, where we boarded a boat and began our canal tour. At first, silence surrounded us and we wondered if we’d drifted into a bird-free zone. Suddenly, I spotted a large bird high in the trees above – a blue heron! This sighting proved to be the first of many, and the guide pointed out boat-billed herons, kingfishers, sandpipers, green herons, fly catchers, white egrets, and an osprey eagle.

American crocodile

The birds were joined by green iguanas, ctenosaurs (the closest dinosaur relative living in Costa Rica), bats, and even a nest of Africanized bees. Several crocodiles moseyed past the boat and I fought to keep my cool. Though the prehistoric creatures generally shy away from humans, I nurse a healthy fear – and hear horror music playing in my head at each sighting.

Howler monkeys lined the trees along the shore, and our guide, an expert at their howl, elicited quite a reaction. They screamed at us, causing such a raucous that neighboring troops joined in. Soon, the forest was alive with howling primates, and I couldn’t fight back a fit of the giggles.

Male capuchin monkey observing us

We pulled up alongside a large troop of white-faced monkeys. They were hunting for food, including bird’s eggs and iguana juveniles, but were having no luck. As the boat idled, the alpha male marched in our direction, eyeing each one of us. He was no more than eight feet from me, and though he did not seem aggressive, I made sure to give him space.

After the 90-minute boat ride, we revisited Hacienda El Viejo for a delicious, traditional lunch. Our stomachs full, we said goodbye to Palo Verde and before we knew it, we had arrived in Guatil.

The dusty streets were lined with traditional homes, most with small storefronts. We walked into one, where a man was expertly handling clay. He and his sister were both Guaitil artisans, proudly following in the footsteps of their Chorotega ancestors. Even today, the residents stick to old traditions, using only natural ingredients to create stunning works of art.

Guaitil pottery is beautiful and durable

The colorful pieces on display had each taken more than 30 days to create. To begin, the sculptors make clay from sand, dirt, and water, mixing it with their feet until reaching the desired consistency. Each piece is created on a manual pottery wheel, shaped by a corncob and gourd shell. Natural paints are created from white, black and red rocks – everything harvested from the earth. The works are dried in the sun and a wood-fired oven, baking into pieces sturdy enough for everyday use.

After a pottery demonstration, we were free to explore the family’s shop. I ran around, flitting from one piece to another, unsure of what to buy. Finally, Fabian and I decided on a lovely vase decorated with indigenous symbols and stamped with the family’s name. It was a one-of-a-kind piece, and I couldn’t wait to display it at home.

For more trip planning information, see our guide to Palo Verde National Park.

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Day 5: Snorkeling and a Tamarindo Sunset

Gerry — Wed, 17 Feb 2010 00:14:50 +0000

Male howler monkey

Our host, Barry, had prepared a special breakfast for us this morning: wheat tortillas piled high with eggs, seasoned rice, shredded cheese, and salsa. Fresh fruits, bread, and homemade spreads decorated the tabletop, and we dug in with gusto.

Fabian and I had a snorkeling and sunset cruise that afternoon, so we spent the morning at Villa Alegre’s ocean-view infinity pool. Fabian jumped in for a swim and I settled down in a lounge chair to read. Suddenly, a noise caught my attention and I looked up – howler monkeys!

The Marlin del Rey in Tamarindo Bay

Four large primates were making their way through the trees, foraging for food on the villa’s grounds. I grabbed my camera and ran over, careful not to infuriate them (they have a tendency to pee and throw poop during confrontation). Several minutes later, I was feeling comfortable in their presence and threw caution to the wind; from deep in my throat, I conjured a howler wail, encouraging their alpha male to scream his response.

Laughter erupted behind me. Fabian stood there, doubled over, chuckling. Irritated, I demanded to know what was so funny. Apparently, he didn’t appreciate my howler imitation. To be fair, the alpha monkey didn’t either; he hadn’t even looked my way. Fabian gave it a shot, but his attempt was at least as poor as my own – not one howler reacted. We did irritate one individual – the gardener next door stared at us, his expression half bewildered, half bemused. I don’t mind looking ridiculous, so I grinned at him and shrugged.

Tamarindo Snorkeling Cove

Just before noon, Fabian and I caught a taxi to Tamarindo beach. We ordered cold fruit drinks while we waited for the afternoon’s catamaran cruise to begin. As the meeting time rolled around, I saw a group of tourists collecting by the shore. I couldn’t believe so many people would be waiting for just one boat, so I sidled over to ask. Sure enough, these would be our sail mates – more than 60 of us in total.

As soon as I saw the boat, all concerns evaporated; it was huge! Out in the bay, it rocked gently while a small dingy ferried us out in groups of 15. The Marlin del Rey is a 66-foot sailboat, the largest tour catamaran in Costa Rica. It is capable of reaching 25 knots (about 29 miles per hour) with just its sails, which the captain uses often.

Salsa Dancing – Let the Party Begin!

Onboard, Fabian and I explored the boat – there were two forward hammocks, an interior cabin, and plenty of sitting room on both port and starboard sides. As we waited for everyone to board, a crew member offered us a drink – alcohol and soft drinks are all-inclusive on the Marlin del Rey – and we gladly accepted the cool refreshments.

We set out for a quiet snorkeling bay, and I observed how perfect the afternoon was: the sun was out, the temperature hovered at a balmy 80º, and tropical tunes wafted from the on-board sound system. Fabian grabbed my hand, leading me in a fast-stepped salsa, but I soon begged off – the boat’s sway had thrown me off balance, and I felt like I had two left feet.

We arrived at Pirates’ Bay, one of Tamarindo’s preferred snorkeling locations. I’ve always been a bit wary about what lurks beneath the water, so I elected to stay onboard with several of my fellow passengers. I made sure I was covered in sun block from head to toe, and then reclined on the rope hammocks. The warm sunbeams tickled my toes and the gentle rocking motion lulled me into a relaxed state.

Sunset from the Marlin del Rey

The snorkelers returned after an hour of frolicking in the bay. The crew turned up the music and began to prepare a feast. Before long, our plates were stacked with barbecued chicken, guacamole, salsa, tortilla chips, and chocolate chip cookies. The sun always makes me tired and hungry, and the mid-afternoon meal really recharged my engine.

We had been using the motor, but the crowd was clamoring for the sails. Sporting smiles, the affable crew raised the great, white sheets. With just the power of the wind, we sailed back toward Tamarindo as the sun began to dip low in the sky. Several couples, Fabian and myself included, reclined on deck to watch the romantic scene unfold.

We returned to shore around 6:30 p.m. and taxied back to the bed and breakfast. Still stuffed from the onboard feast, we grabbed a few snacks and headed out to the pool. It was the perfect night for a swim.

For more trip planning information, see our Tamarindo travel guide.

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Day 4: Journey to Playa Langosta

Gerry — Mon, 15 Feb 2010 18:15:06 +0000

Beachfront Villa Alegre

Today, we were headed for the Pacific coast – Tamarindo and Langosta, to be precise. We waited for Interbus, one of Costa Rica’s private transfer companies, at a restaurant near the international airport. I had never traveled with them before, but was looking forward to their door-to-door service. The shuttle would carry us directly to Playa Langosta’s Villa Alegre.

To my surprise, our driver walked into the restaurant a full 15 minutes ahead of schedule. Costa Rica often follows “island time” (despite its not being an island), so I now appreciate punctuality more than ever. He told us to take our time, but we were anxious to get on the road.

Mexico: The Honeymoon Suite

The five-hour journey to Tamarindo was mostly uneventful, except for a rest stop at a small restaurant. Climbing out of the vehicle, we were greeted by the sounds of squawking macaws. I saw at least ten red macaws and one blue in the towering trees above. They were obviously accustomed to humans – four sociable birds flew down to where we were standing – but it was an incredible sight nonetheless. In Costa Rica, the best places to view these vibrant birds are in Carara National Park and the Osa Peninsula, so this was a special treat.

We arrived at Villa Alegre just after 1:00 p.m. Barry, one of the bed and breakfast’s owners, welcomed us at the door. Ushering us into his beautiful home, he offered iced herbal tea and a comfortable place to sit.

Playa Langosta

Barry showed us the veranda, where we would eat breakfast, the swimming pool, and the short gravel path that led to the ocean. A bench sat on a bluff, overlooking the Pacific, and I couldn’t wait to take a peek. He took us to the honeymoon suite, a beautiful room decorated with souvenirs and textiles that he and his wife, Suzye, had collected during their travels through Mexico. An outdoor bathroom was connected to our room, and I was excited to shower beneath the stars.

We walked down to an Italian-owned shop, where we ordered delicious hoagies on fresh baguettes loaded with prosciutto, mozzarella, lettuce and tomato. After lunch, we strolled along Playa Langosta, a lovely stretch of sand studded with remnants of volcanic rock.

Pelicans at sunset

The black rock expanses trapped shells in their nooks and crannies, so I began looking for specimens to add to my collection. Fabian waded into the sea, body surfing the gentle waves. I retired to the shade of some beach almond trees, where I wiled the afternoon away with a good book.

We returned to Villa Alegre for the sunset, and positioned ourselves on the beachfront bench. Flocks of pelicans flew back and forth, their bodies parallel to the ocean, often swooping down to catch a fish. As the sun began its descent, the clear sky melted first into peach and then to brighter hues. The golden orb, which seemed close enough to touch, began to burn into orange. The effect was incredible – like the sky had caught fire – and I knew I would always remember this night.

For more trip planning information, see our Tamarindo travel guide.

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Day 3: Hiking and Tree Planting

Gerry — Sat, 13 Feb 2010 07:13:34 +0000

Views from the lookout point

I crawled out of bed, grabbed a fleece blanket, and cozied up by the fireplace. At El Silencio Lodge, each suite is equipped with a gas fireplace that keeps the room warm and the ambiance romantic. Fabian and I had left ours on overnight and the orange flames tempted me to read by the early morning light.

We went to breakfast shortly after 7:00 a.m., and surveyed the menu’s list of wholesome choices. Over a plate of fresh papaya, mango, pineapple, and watermelon, I decided on a whole-wheat veggie wrap, while Fabian chose his favorite omelet. The food was delicious and well prepared; it was obvious that the chef took pride in his dishes.

Small waterfall over the path

We hurried back to our cottage to fill up water bottles and grab a few snacks. Just across the river, the Silencio Trail awaited. Ronald, our eco-concierge, had recommended the gentle hike for its scenery, picturesque lookout points, and “Magical Knot” labyrinth, a butterfly garden laid out in a maze.

Like yesterday’s hike, we seemed to be the only guests on the trail. Climbing up the grassy path, we soon reached the first lookout point. The wooden platform was set into the mountainside and afforded beautiful views of the mountains and Bajos del Toro valley. Cloud forest surrounds the lodge, and though mist clung to the mountains, the sky was clear.

Farther along the trail, we came across a scene I can only describe as half secret garden, half mythical grove. A small stream tumbled down the rock face, running over the path before continuing its downward descent. The trail, which had previously been open to the valley below, was covered in vines and green branches. Birdsong harmonized with the flowing water, creating a setting that was as tranquil as it was beautiful.

Hummingbird garden

Normally, I hike with purpose – I’m either headed somewhere or pushing my own limits, but there’s something about walking along gorgeous trails with no one in sight. We found ourselves savoring every moment, taking time to focus on the colorful berries, fuzzy leaves, and moss-covered rocks decorating the trail.

We ended at the Magical Knot, a small garden of butterfly bushes, cacti, and other decorative plants. Without plastic feeders, the garden only attracts hummingbirds naturally – and there were plenty. Purple and green were the morning’s most popular colors, and the tiny birds whizzed past us, flying faster than my eyes could track. They stopped suddenly to drink from a flower before dashing away in search of more sweet nectar.

To satisfy my own sweet tooth, I ordered a pineapple smoothie at lunch (and a slice of chocolate mocha cake) to accompany my vegetable spring rolls wrapped in delicate rice paper and covered with white and black sesame seeds. This delectable appetizer was followed by tilapia in a spicy tomato sauce. Fabian chose an avocado and tomato salad and chicken kebobs. For dessert, he sampled carrot cake topped with a warm coconut glaze in lieu of the traditional (and lactose-laden) cream cheese icing.

Planting our tree

Later, we met with Ronald for the lodge’s special tree planting ceremony. All guests are invited to commemorate their stay by planting a tree. Ronald had selected a small Dama sapling, which would grow into a large tree bearing red berries for the birds. Together, we carefully placed it in the ground, covering it with fresh earth. A small name card dangled from a branch, a memento of our time at the lodge. As newlyweds, this ceremony held special meaning for us – it would forever symbolize our first days as husband and wife.

That night, the waiters had a special fireside dinner planned for us. Set apart from the restaurant, we enjoyed a private meal by the great stone hearth, enjoying the warmth of the wood fire. Costa Rica’s weather rarely warrants a fire, and this was one of my favorite features at the lodge – I was never cold, but always cool enough to enjoy the romantic flames.

After dinner, we went back to our suite for one last dip in the hot tub. The sounds of the cloud forest were everywhere, relaxing my mind as the bubbling hot-water jets massaged my muscles. We reflected on our three days at the lodge, and agreed that it had been the ideal beginning to our honeymoon.

Are you planning a honeymoon in paradise? Read up on Costa Rica’s most romantic honeymoon locales.

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Day 2: Waterfalls and Spa Treatments

Gerry — Fri, 12 Feb 2010 01:13:37 +0000

Healthy and decadent breakfast

To call this morning’s breakfast hearty would be an understatement – it began with home-baked bread, muffins, turnovers, juicy fruit, and yogurt followed by fresh-squeezed orange juice, pineapple juice, and coffee. Fabian ordered a vegetarian omelet while I breakfasted on a traditional dish made of toasted corn tortillas, eggs, pureed black beans, fresh cheese, guacamole, and salsa.

My mother would call such filling fare a meal that “sticks to your bones” – and that’s exactly what we needed. We were energized for this morning’s adventure: hiking the lodge’s Mystery and Mystic Trails. As we climbed up a gravel path, which wound through the hotel’s main grounds, we passed an organic garden and greenhouse, a small pond, and an eco-sanctuary.

Bridge to El Silencio Waterfall

Though we didn’t discover the meanings behind the trail names, Fabian and I decided that the Mystery Trail must be named for its misty (and therefore mysterious) qualities. The picturesque path meandered through dense cloud forest, where low-hanging clouds created an ethereal ambiance. The rustic trail was so well maintained that even I – the master of missteps – felt secure enough to take my eyes off the route and focus on the greenery around us.

Birdsong echoed through the forest canopy and a rushing river serenaded us with its tranquil gurgling. There were no other sounds to be heard, and I felt like I was living inside the best nature/meditation soundtrack ever created. Though my heart pounded with exertion, I was overcome by a sense of calm. I remarked to Fabian that I could not imagine a better place to begin our life together (and recover from wedding planning!).

The hike was about to improve. As we rounded a bend, I saw a wooden sign indicating that we had reached the first of three waterfalls. We walked onto a small suspension bridge, and La Melodia Waterfall greeted us – it was larger than I had imagined, careening over a rocky cliff and onto the boulders below.

La Melodia Waterfall

Another 10 minutes delivered us to El Silencio, a cascade that eschewed its name – its roar was so deafening that I could barely hear Fabian’s exclamations of wonder. From our wooden perch, we could feel the water’s spray, and I looked down to where the powerful current beat upon the river rocks. I took my husband’s hand – this was a special and very romantic moment, one in which I felt almost one with my surroundings.

The last waterfall, La Promesa, proved to be even more spectacular than the first two. Since we were climbing up a winding set of stairs, we didn’t see the cascade until it was almost in front of us. There, in the clearing, was a large, natural swimming hole fed by a tumbling chute of water. Unlike the first two, this waterfall was almost quiet, keeping the din to a gentle murmur. Both Fabian and I stood in awe for a few moments before leaping into action to shoot photos from every angle. Though I was not in the mood for a swim, I dipped my fingers into the clear, mountain pool.

Gorgeous La Promesa Waterfall

We decided to walk back along the Mystic Trail, which zigzagged down the river’s opposite bank. Time had flown during our three-falls reverie, and we had to hurry back for lunch before the afternoon’s luxurious spa treatment. Though we got lost briefly, we kept the river on our left and finally emerged at the lodge’s restaurant. The four-mile journey had taken almost four hours, including time spent wondering at the beauty of nature.

After exercise, I’m rarely hungry, but today was different. I managed to devour a bowl of tortilla soup and a filling dish of rice, black beans, salad, fried plantains, and grilled tilapia. Fabian had another salad – he was becoming a lettuce fiend – and chicken kebobs. Stuffed, we walked back to our suite for an hour of downtime.

As my muscles cooled, I felt a deep ache set in – the good kind that comes from a great hike. I was looking forward to working out the kinks with the spa’s luscious Meditation Spa Duet. At 2:45, we crossed the river and followed the forest signs to the spa – it was set back from the hotel, offering total seclusion. When we arrived, meditation tunes played in the background and aromatic oils wafted through the air, enlivening my senses.

El Silencio

Fabian and I were ushered into separate bathrooms, where our spa therapists – Giselle and Jennifer – gave us cushy bathrobes and slippers. We answered a questionnaire about our health history and problem areas, then walked back to our private room, which was comfortably heated.

For our full-body exfoliation and aromatherapy massages, I had chosen essence of ylang ylang while Fabian opted for soothing vanilla. We began with the exfoliation face down; Jennifer poured warm coconut oil on my back, mixing it with cane sugar for a gentle but invigorating scrub. She anointed her hands with ylang ylang oil, and wafted the scent under my nose to impart its anti-stress qualities.

Our massage room and outdoor shower

At first, my skin prickled with sensitivity, but I soon found Jennifer’s rhythmic hand movements meditative – true to the treatment’s name. She made sure to focus on my skin’s driest areas, working the warm oil into each exfoliated section. Half an hour later, she asked me to flip over, and I languidly turned onto my back. My muscles felt like jelly and I was completely relaxed.

When the exfoliation was complete, Jennifer and Giselle whispered softly in our ears to use the outdoor shower and wash off. The heated water was flowing from a giant rainfall showerhead. It created a cascading cone large enough for two, and luxurious L’Occitane organic products were provided to wash the sugar and oil off our bodies.

Afternoon champagne and fruit kebobs

When we were clean and dry, Fabian and I returned to the warm room for our massages. Again, Jennifer waved her hands under my head, and I breathed in the relaxing scent of ylang ylang. She began massaging my back, commenting quietly that I was tense in my shoulders. She applied more strength to her touch until I indicated the pressure was just right.

After kneading away my back pain, she transitioned to my thighs, calves, and feet – all three were sore from the morning’s exertions. I was enjoying every moment, but curious about Fabian’s experience – this was his first massage – so I peeked over at his table. He was relaxed, with eyes closed, as if in another world. I realized I had turned my husband into a spa addict.

After the hour-long massage, we showered and marveled at the softness of our skin – silky like a newborn’s. We went back to the room, where two flutes of champagne and fruit kebobs awaited. We clinked our glasses and enjoyed the fruit in silence, still too relaxed to form coherent sentences.

Planning a Costa Rica honeymoon? See our suggestions for a honeymoon in paradise.

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Costa Rica Honeymoon – Romance and Adventure

Gerry — Wed, 10 Feb 2010 20:13:27 +0000

Just Married!

After setting our wedding date, my future husband, Fabian, and I started thinking about our honeymoon. Costa Rica is so diverse – you can travel from fireplace weather to tropical beachfront in just a few hours – and we had only 10 days to explore.

As we planned for our romantic vacation, we focused on low-key adventures and picturesque scenery. We poured over travel information, sought out some of Costa Rica’s most romantic hotels, and finally settled on a combination of quiet mountains, secluded locales, and beachfront getaways.

Gorgeous waterfall at El Silencio Lodge

Our honeymoon began at El Silencio Lodge, an architectural gem in the Bajos del Toro valley 30 minutes east of Zarcero. The temperatures were cool, and the scenery straight out of a storybook: white mist clung to the mountainside, a river gurgled in the background, and a chorus of birdsong serenaded our arrival. Our suite, actually a riverfront cabin, was luxurious with a cozy gas fireplace, fluffy down bedding, and a private outdoor hot tub.

El Silencio means silence, and the lodge’s name epitomized its setting. The hotel’s 500 acres of private reserve are flanked by Juan Castro Blanco and Poas National Parks, and have three roaring waterfalls, miles of private trails, and stunning mountaintop lookout points. During our three-day stay, Fabian and I hiked almost every trail and indulged in the most luxurious spa treatments of our lives. By the time we left for the beach, we were relaxed, refreshed, and relieved of any post-wedding stress.

Transitioning from the mountains to the Pacific, we arrived at Villa Alegre, an upscale bed and breakfast located beachfront on spectacular Playa Langosta. Though the Spanish-style villa is just a mile from downtown Tamarindo, it is worlds away from the hustle and bustle – the only sounds we heard were howler monkeys in the yard, waves crashing on the beach, and fellow guests splashing in the ocean-view pool. Barry and Suzye, Villa Alegre’s owners, offered warm hospitality and some of Costa Rica’s best breakfasts, making this both a lavish and indulgent retreat.

White-faced monkey at Palo Verde National Park

While in Tamarindo, Fabian and I broke out of our honeymoon cocoon long enough to enjoy some of the area’s famed activities. We explored Langosta Beach – wading in the surf, shelling, and savoring a spectacular sunset – and enjoyed a snorkeling and sunset cruise aboard the Marlin del Rey, a 66-foot sailing catamaran. We wrapped up our stay with a visit to Palo Verde National Park, a birding paradise, and Guaitil, an indigenous village famous for its Chorotega pottery.

Sticking to the Pacific coastline, we traveled south to Manuel Antonio and Hotel Makanda by the Sea. Set on a mountaintop overlooking a quiet bay, our private villa offered the ultimate in romance, including a king-sized canopy bed and a hammock with a view. Huge breakfasts were delivered to our room each morning, and flowers decorated our honeymoon suite every afternoon. We were surrounded by rainforest, where white-faced monkeys and sloths were spotted daily.

Incredible sunset over Manuel Antonio

We packed plenty of activity into our two days in Manuel Antonio, beginning our visit with dinner at a restaurant crafted from the shell of a Fairchild C-123 airplane. Over calamari and fruit drinks, we were treated to another gorgeous, if bewildering sunset. The next day, we took a tour of Villa Vanilla, an organic vanilla farm, where we learned about vanilla farming and got a taste of it, too! Later, we dined at Kapi Kapi, Manuel Antonio’s top-rated restaurant, and enjoyed what may have been the best meal of our lives. (It was definitely the best of our married life!)

Palo Seco beach stretches for miles

We rounded out our honeymoon in Playa Palo Seco, 25 miles north near Parrita. Timarai Bamboo Resort offered seclusion, an incredible beach, and romantic bamboo architecture. Our hosts, Xavier and Esperanza, were gracious and welcoming. We had purposely scheduled no activity as we wanted to relax and enjoy our last two days. We began with an afternoon walk, enjoyed a breathtaking sunset and oceanfront seafood feast, all with our feet buried in the sand. On our last day we walked the Pacific shoreline, which seemed to stretch for many miles, cooling off in the surf and hunting for shells and sand dollars.

After ten days of bliss spent in the mountains, on the beach, and on a bluff, we were relaxed and full of memories to last us a lifetime. Our honeymoon had passed in a whirlwind of pampering and adventure, and we both agreed that Costa Rica had been the perfect place to spend our first few days as husband and wife.

Stay tuned for all 10 days of honeymoon bliss!

Day 1: Fairy Tale Mountains of Bajos del Toro

Are you planning a honeymoon in Costa Rica? Check out our suggestions for a honeymoon in paradise.

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