Tamarindo's meteoric rise to become a serious contender for the title of Costa Rica's most popular beach town is not hard to explain. All the things people come to Costa Rica for—beach life, surfing, fishing, diving and nature tourism—are either right here or nearby. And while the resort town's development has been rapid and, by the look of it, not stringently planned, somehow Tamarindo has managed to retain a lazy, low-key charm that is irresistible.

Maybe it's turning off the blacktop onto that last five klicks of bumpy, dusty dirt road (leading to the town's bumpy, dusty main drag) that slows you down and gets you into the mood to kick back. Whatever it is, nobody seems in a particular hurry to get anywhere—although if you want to take advantage of everything Tamarindo has to offer we advise you not to spend too much time hanging around.

Tamarindo is the epicenter of one of the world's great year-round warm water surfing coasts. If there's nothing doing off Tamarindo, which is rare, then it's a simple matter to head south to Playa Langosta, a bit further south to Playa Avellana, north to the big beach breaks at Playa Grande and Playa Negra or hop a water taxi to the renowned tubes of Witches Rock at Playa Naranjo in Santa Rosa National Park.

In the event that you find yourself surf-hungry but board-free, there are several rental shops that will set you up and tell you where to go. 

For the nature lover, the best reason to be in the Tamarindo area is to witness the nesting of the baulas, the giant leatherback turtles, at nearby Playa Grande. Now part of Las Baulas National Park, this long beach is one of the world's most important nesting sites for this huge reptile. With adults growing to an astonishing 1,000 pounds and more, the leatherback is the world's largest marine turtle and its annual nesting ritual is one of the most impressive sights in the natural world.

During nesting season, October through March, hundreds of visitors descend on Playa Grande to watch the female leatherbacks emerge from the surf and laboriously make their way up to the dry dunes, deposit 100 or so golf ball-sized eggs into a shallow pit, cover the whole thing up again and then drag themselves back to the sea.

There are a couple of seedy-looking discos and any number of late-night bars at the southern end of the strip but, from 9 p.m. on, all roads lead to the bar at Ron Stewart's Hotel Pasatiempo for adult beverages and live music. The band is generally any bunch of guys who happen to be in the area with instruments and the inclination to put together a few sets. Middle-aged McNab had no complaints about The Leatherbacks, a singer/guitarist from California, bass player from Germany, drummer from Quebec, because how could you not warm to guys who include the Stones, Hendrix and Wilson Pickett in their repertoire.

Attractions

Surfing, Boogie Boarding
The waves are in. If you don't have a board, you can certainly find one here.

Touring the Estuary
You'll have a chance to explore the saltwater wildlife refuge by motorboat or by kayaking your way in. Bird watching is outstanding, as well as other wildlife spotting. Enjoy the evergreen mangrove forests. We recommend hiring a local guide to get the best out of this adventure.

Turtle Watching
Turtle nesting takes place only in Playa Grande. To observe the turtles' arrival, you must sign in at the park guard station. Small groups are formed (up to 15 people each), and experienced guides will be assigned to each group. Park rangers roam the beach until a turtle is spotted. Then they alert the group guides by flashing red lights, and the guides will then take you to the nesting site. The nesting ritual is so impressive that silence fills the air, allowing you to listen to the sounds of the turtles' breathing, and their movements in the sand.

Horseback Riding
First-class horses are available; you can hire a guide and ride through forests, pastures, villages and across rivers.

Sailing, Snorkeling and Diving
From Tamarindo, you can arrange day trips to undeveloped beaches such as Cabo Vela, Playa Conchal (an amazing seashell beach with crystal-clear water), Brasilito and Playa Langosta, where the snorkeling is best. Right in front of Tamarindo you'll find Captain Island, where snorkeling is also possible. Islas Catalinas to the North is the best spot for diving. If you're a beginner, you can take an intensive one-day course and dive into the real marine world next day. Water temperature is 75°F. Once you're in the water, you'll be greeted by giant Manta Rays, Eagle and Cownose Rays, Dolphins and harmless Whitetip Reef Sharks. There are several full equipment rentals in the area.

Kayaking
The Estuary offers a great opportunity for kayakers. As you practice this sport you have a chance to enjoy the beautiful landscape formed by evergreen mangroves. Wild animals and birds will meet your eye wherever you go.

National Parks
From Tamarindo you can take day trips to the different National Parks of the area. Santa Rosa National Park is one of the last remaining ecosystems of Tropical Dry Forest, with grasslands and savannah woodlands. Palo Verde National Park holds the highest concentration of waterfowl and wadding birds in all of Central America. Rincón de la Vieja National Park is an active volcano, with boiling mud pots, hot water springs and air vents. Guaitil hosts one of the most important sites for pottery production. Locals follow Chorotega Indian techniques, passed down from their Pre-Columbian ancestors.

How to Get to Tamarindo Beach

If you are traveling by car, we recommend a four-wheel drive vehicle, especially during the rainy season. Roads are paved most of the way, but the last 4 miles to Playa Tamarindo are gravel, although in fairly good condition. A 4WD will also let you enjoy other nearby natural sites without worrying about driving problems.

From San José, take the Interamerican Highway North. Turn left off the highway at Liberia, and follow the signs to Santa Cruz. When you reach the town of Belén, turn right off the main road to Huacas (16 miles away). Once there turn left for Villareal (9 miles away), located only five minutes from Tamarindo. The trip from San José will take 5 hours at the most.

When you reach Huacas, you can take the gravel road that leads the way to Playa Grande. This isolated beach is located across the estuary from Tamarindo, and it provides the area with interesting nature-oriented day and night tours.

Flying to Tamarindo:  Travelair ($146 round trip). They both have at least one daily flight, and fly twice every day during high season. Flights take a bit less than an hour, and the aerial view is breathtaking all the way. Tamarindo airport is a 10-minute ride from the beach. You may be able to arrange with the hotel for a pick-up, or you can hire a taxi or wait for the next bus.

Empresa Alfaro buses run every day from San José to Tamarindo. They depart from San José at 3:30 pm, and leave Tamarindo at 6 am (tel. 222-2160). The bus ride takes 6 hours and the fare is $5 one-way.

If you want to avoid driving and hassling with buses, inquire in your hotel for daily shuttles to and from San José, the International Airport in Alajuela, Puntarenas or Liberia.

Nightlife

Tamarindo is like any other small Latin American beach town in that there are a couple of small bars on the main road and a disco nightclub a little farther down. The difference is that the bars here get packed and the disco is usually a blast with tourists and locals celebrating the weekend and their vacations.