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Our People

Ticos, as Costa Ricans are commonly known, are a fairly mixed bunch. Though the majority of the country's 3.3 million inhabitants are the descendents of Spanish immigrants, many families originated from other parts of Europe, Asia, Africa and, of course, Central America. You may be surprised by the number of fair-skinned people you'll see in the country, especially in the Central Valley. In the lowlands, more people are mestizo -- that is mixture of European and Indigenous blood -- whereas the majority along the Caribbean coast are of African lineage, and much of the Talamanca Mountain Range is inhabited by full-blooded Indians of various ethnicities.

Costa Rica is unquestionably the most racially homogeneous Central American nation. Travelers familiar with other Central American countries will immediately notice the contrast: The vast majority of Costa Ricans look predominantly European. A 1995 census classified 96 percent of the 3.4 million population as white or mestizo (of European and African or Native American ancestry), and 3 percent as black or Native American.

Most Costa Ricans insist their country is a "classless democracy." True, the social tensions that characterize many neighboring nations are absent. Ticos (Costa Ricans) lack the volatility, ultranationalism, and deep-seated political divisions of their neighbors. There is considerable social mobility, and nearly everyone shares a conviction that through individual effort, sacrifice, and schooling anyone can climb the socioeconomic ladder. Still, the average income is slightly less than US$3,000 per annum—and blacks and the indigenous people have traditionally been anything but "classless."

 Minorities
Costa Rica's approximately 40,000 blacks are the nation's largest minority. For many years they were the target of racist immigration and residence laws that restricted them to the Caribbean coast. Hence, they remained isolated from national culture. (Only in 1949, when the new constitution abrogated apartheid on the Atlantic Railroad, were blacks allowed to travel beyond Siquirres and enter the highlands.) Although African Caribbean turtle hunters settled on the Caribbean coast as early as 1825, most blacks today can trace their ancestry from the 10,000 or so Jamaicans hired to build the Atlantic Railroad, and to later waves of immigrants who came to work banana plantations in the late 19th century.

Costa Rica's indigenous peoples have suffered abysmally. Centuries ago the original tribes were splintered by Spanish conquistadores and compelled to retreat into the interior mountains. (The Chorotegas of Guanacaste, however, were more gradually assimilated into the national culture.) Today, approximately 9,000 Native Americans of the Bribrí, Boruca, and Cabecar tribes manage to eke out a living from the remote valley forests of southern Costa Rica, where their ancestors sought refuge from the Spanish. Eight different Native American groups live on 22 Native American reserves, and in December 1977 a law was passed prohibiting non-Native Americans from buying, leasing, or renting land within the reserves.

 Ticos
Costa Ricans' unique traits derive from a profoundly conscious self-image that orients much of their behavior as both individuals and as a nation. The Ticos—the name is said to derive from the colonial saying "we are all hermaniticos (little brothers)"—to an extent feel distinct from their neighbors by their "whiteness" and relative lack of indigenous culture.

The behavior and comments of most Ticos are dictated by quedar bien, a desire to leave a good impression. Costa Ricans are terribly frightened of embarrassing themselves by appearing vulgar or unhelpful. As such, Costa Ricans can be exceedingly courteous (they frequently offer flowing compliments and formal greetings). It is a rare visitor to the country who returns home unimpressed by the Costa Ricans' warmth and hospitality.

Ticos are, by and large, peaceable. It has been said that the Ticos respect and have faith in their laws, their police force, and state institutions. In fact, a distaste for anything that impinges on their liberty or that of their nation is just about the only thing that will make their hackles rise. Attempts to modernize the police force, for example, bring floods of editorial columns and popular outrage protesting "militarism."

Democracy in Costa Rica is a most treasured institution, and the ideal of personal liberty is strongly cherished. Costa Ricans are proud of their accomplishments in this arena and show it at 6 PM on each 14 September, the eve of Independence Day, when the business of the nation halts and everyone lustily sings the national anthem.

 Machismo and Women
To some observers, Tico men make a national pastime of flirting. Yet by the standards of other Central American countries, Costa Rican men might be considered restrained in their advances and the nation progressive and moderately successful in advancing the rights of women.

That said, legacies of the Spanish Catholic sense of "proper" gender roles are woven through the national fabric. Male and female roles are clearly defined. Machismo, sustained by a belief in the dominance of men, underlies the Costa Rican way of life. The infidelities of married men are still tolerated by a remarkably high percentage of women. Hip urban Ticas have forsaken old-fashioned romanticism for a latter-day liberalism that accepts short-term relationships and sexual adventurism. Even in the most isolated rural towns, dating in the Western fashion has displaced the retreta—the circling of the central plaza by men and women on weekend evenings—and chaperonage, once common, has disappeared.

 Religion
Costa Ricans are said to be lukewarm when it comes to religion. Although more than 90 percent of the population is nominally Roman Catholic, few are passionate practitioners. The country has always been remarkably secular, and the Church, from earliest colonial times, had little success controlling the masses. Catholicism, nonetheless, has a tenuous hold; in a crisis Ticos might turn to a favorite saint to request a miracle. And folkloric belief in witchcraft is still common (Escazú is renowned as a center for brujos, witches who specialize in casting-out spells and resolving love problems).

The Catholic clergy has fiercely protected its turf against Protestant missionaries, and the Protestant evangelism so prevalent in other parts of Central America has yet to take hold in Costa Rica. A great many sects, however, have found San José the ideal base for proselytizing forays elsewhere in the isthmus.

 Conduct
Visitors should observe certain behavioral guidelines. Generally, Costa Ricans are immensely respectful and gracious, with a deep sense of integrity. Courtesy is greatly appreciated, and you can ease your way considerably by being both polite and patient. Always greet your host with "Buenas días" or "Buenas tardes." Honor local dress codes as appropriate. Don't flaunt flesh! Nude bathing is neither allowed nor accepted. Short shorts should generally be relegated to beachwear; longer shorts are now gaining acceptance on urban streets.

Costa Rican tourism authorities have compiled information useful to visitors in a pamphlet called "Code of Ethics for Responsible Tourism."